Kitchen Faucet Leaking? Fix It in 15 Minutes for Under $20

Updated April 2026 · 6 min read · Verified by the FixThisNow diagnostic team

A dripping kitchen faucet isn't just annoying — a slow drip wastes about 3,000 gallons per year and a plumber will charge $150–$250 to fix it. The good news: 9 times out of 10, the actual problem is a $12 rubber cartridge that takes 15 minutes to swap. This guide walks you through it, step by step.

What's actually wrong (in plain English)

Inside every modern kitchen faucet is a small cylindrical part called a cartridge. It controls the flow and mix of hot and cold water. After 5–10 years of use, the rubber seals inside the cartridge harden, crack, or develop mineral buildup — and water starts seeping past them. That's your drip.

The fix is almost always the same: replace the cartridge. It doesn't matter how fancy the faucet looks on the outside — Moen, Delta, Kohler, Pfister, and every off-brand model uses some version of this part.

Tools and parts you'll need

Step-by-step: fix a leaking kitchen faucet

1. Shut off the water. Reach under the sink and turn both supply valves (hot and cold) clockwise until they stop. Then open the faucet to relieve any remaining pressure — water should drip and stop within a few seconds.
2. Remove the handle. Most handles have a small decorative cap hiding a set screw. Pry the cap off with a flathead screwdriver. Loosen the set screw with the matching Allen or Phillips driver. Lift the handle straight up off the stem.
3. Loosen the retaining nut or clip. Underneath the handle you'll see a brass nut (unscrew with your wrench) or a horseshoe-shaped clip (pull it out with needle-nose pliers). Set aside — you'll reuse this.
4. Pull out the old cartridge. Grip the top of the cartridge firmly and pull straight up. If it's stuck, wiggle side-to-side gently. Take note of which direction the notch faces — the new one must go in the same way.
5. Install the new cartridge. Smear a thin layer of plumber's grease on the O-rings. Slide the cartridge in, aligning the notch with the slot in the faucet body. It should seat fully — if it won't, check the alignment.
6. Reassemble and test. Reinstall the clip or nut, the handle, and the set screw. Turn the supply valves back on slowly — a sudden pressure spike can dislodge a new cartridge. Run hot and cold and check all seams for drips.

When to call a professional instead

• The leak is under the sink, not from the faucet head. That's a supply-line or shut-off valve issue and has nothing to do with the cartridge.
• The faucet body is cracked. If you see hairline cracks in the brass or chrome, the whole faucet needs replacing.
• You see active water damage in the cabinet, drywall, or floor. Stop, shut off the water to the house at the main, and call a plumber — you likely have a hidden slow leak that needs investigation.
• Hot water's scalding even on low. That's a mixer valve or water heater issue, not a faucet cartridge.

How to prevent this from happening again

Cartridges are consumables — they wear out. You can stretch their life to 10+ years with a few habits:

• Install a whole-house sediment filter if you're on a well or hard-water municipal supply. Sediment accelerates cartridge wear dramatically.
• Don't yank the handle. Forcing it past its stops grinds the cartridge internals.
• Clean the aerator every 6 months. Debris backflow damages the cartridge over time.

Frequently asked questions